We meet today in the small town of Onomichi - which is easily reached by train from Osaka or Kyoto using the famous Shinkansen (Bullet Train). Shortly after meeting we'll hop aboard a ferry to our start point on the iconic Shimanami Kaido route.

We start off pedaling through secluded bamboo forests to a beautiful coastal route with enough topography to enhance the scenic experience, but not so much as to exhaust us.  Our destination for the first night, a small town initially founded on salt production.

A night in a cozy Ryokan with dinner had nearby in a local eatery. That eatery is near enough, that it is acceptable for us to dress in our Yukatas - a comfortable, traditional gown that will be supplied in your room.

Our day starts with a coffee at a nearby bike cafe, then it’s time to hit the road. The route begins with a climb up to the hilltop in the middle of Ikuchi Island where we ride past citrus farms that the island is well known for. We continue over a number of bridges with stunning views out over the blue Seto Sea, islands dotted as far as you can see. 

As we roll into the town of Imabari, you have officially traversed the Shimanami and arrived on Shikoku. There are four prefectures here and we will be riding through Ehima and Kochi. We’ll board a train that takes us an hour to Matsuyama, the largest city in the prefecture and a place with a unique feel. Here colorful orange trams trundle along the main streets and temples and castles sit atop the surrounding hills. 

After checking into our modern hotel, we take the tram down to meet a local Sake expert for a lesson in this national beverage. The fermentation process has been passed down from generation to generation, perfected over time and this evening you will sample its different varieties.

Another comfortable and punctual one-hour train journey leads to the start of our first inland ride. Following the Hijikawa River, we’ll ride quiet roads that follow the contours of the valley. As we reach its headwaters we climb out of the valley leading to the charming village of Yusuhara. 

Internationally renowned architect, Kengo Kuma took a liking to this town and designed and sponsored several buildings and public structures. What you will find here is a tidy, beautiful village with exceedingly hospitable people and a public library of the quality you might expect in a major city. Dinner this evening will be in a small, neighborhood eatery.

This morning we cycle up to the homestead known as Kamikoya where a man named Rogier has made it his life’s work to understand and perfect the art of Washi Paper making. His family run workshops here and today we will partake. With a mountain backdrop behind Kamikoya and the panoramic views of the valley below this is a hands-on experience to treasure. 

When finished, the family will dry out your hand made paper and send it on for collection at the end of the tour. Throughout the morning, we will also learn about the history of Washi Paper and its role in the imperial business of Japan in ancient times. 

The return ride to Yusuhara is a descent, so we will cruise into town by lunchtime. You have the afternoon to yourself to wander, relax, or even enjoy the library until we convene for dinner in a small eatery nearby the hotel.

It’s time to leave our mountain village and travel through the Shimanto region to reach the Pacific Coast. The ride offers another wonderful day of lush green valleys, nearly deserted roads in excellent condition, and bubbling creeks and rivers. There is a sustained climb late-morning that is particularly beautiful in the Fall, with autumn colors at the top which are visually stunning. 

Lunch today is at a wellness retreat set by a raging river, and suitably fed we push on along a plateau. We’ll enjoy a final descent to complete our ride, and you can capture your first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. 

Settling into our clifftop property take a dip in the excellent natural onsen to soak your muscles. The view here peers out over rocky outcrops towards the dark blue ocean landscape. A traditional meal is served tonight and you can retire to a comfortable Japanese futon-style room for a sound night’s sleep.

Today some off-the-bike activity is planned, weather permitting, as we transfer from our hotel to meet some local kayaking enthusiasts. They’ve researched the nearby sheltered coves and bays and will paddle with us around to some of the best spots to view the topography from the water. Rocky outcrops, mountains in the distance, and if we are lucky, maybe some ocean life could reveal itself to us. 

After a morning of paddling and a bite to eat, we take to the bikes again and ride southwards to visit Iwamoto Temple, number 37 on the Henro Pilgrimage route. The temple, set on a wooded hillside outside the town of Kubokawa, features ornate paintings on the ceiling of its main prayer hall. We’ll continue our ride on to the Shimanto River, a significant fishery and the largest river in the area then return to our lodging via a different route.

The ride today will remain etched in your memory long after the tour has concluded. We start out on a deserted road that hugs the cliffs, with the ocean crashing onto the black rocks below us. The composition of the sand here accentuates the blue of the water and you’re guaranteed to want to pause and take photos of the view. 

Passing through the town of Susaki, we enter another stunning section of the route, climbing up to a nature reserve along the ridge. A perfect riding gradient and an abundance of birdlife makes this stretch one of the best parts of an already fantastic ride. 

Our lunch stop is near another of the 88 temples, known as the Blue Dragon. It’s here we often encounter pilgrims making their way along the walking route. Our day concludes riding into Kochi, with an enjoyable descent and a cruise along the river. We pass through the central area of the city and conclude in the heart of the food & dining district. 

Tonight will be our last together, so a progressive dinner with some grazing is in order, and maybe a visit to another Sake bar (or two) as the evening moves along.

The morning is free to relax, or explore the city’s castle. There’s enough time to get your belongings in order before we board the train to Kyoto. A pleasant four hour journey watching the country fly by and we arrive in Kyoto around 3pm, which is check-in time for most hotels.

Disembarking the Shinkansen in Kyoto is a fun way to enter the city, and from here it’s time to say farewell to your fellow adventurers.
Goodbyes over, your guide will happily help you with taking a taxi onward to your hotel of choice.