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Your Guide to Coimbra, Portugal

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Your Guide to Coimbra, Portugal

Lirene CilliersBy Lirene Cilliers   Posted 13th May 2025

Nestled halfway between Lisbon and Porto, Coimbra is one of Portugal’s most underrated gems — and the perfect pit stop if you're road-tripping, rail-hopping, or, better yet, pedaling your way through the country. Think of it as Portugal’s middle child: charming, intelligent, a little quirky, and absolutely worth a visit. 

This city might not scream for attention like its coastal siblings, but that’s part of the magic. Once the capital of Portugal (yep, before Lisbon stole the spotlight), Coimbra is steeped in history, buzzing with student energy thanks to one of the oldest universities in Europe, and packed with architectural eye candy.  

In this blog, we’ll guide you through the top Coimbra attractions, things to do, how to get to Coimbra from Lisbon or Porto, and, of course, what to eat. 

Oh, and speaking of experiencing Coimbra — if you're into delving DEEP into a destination with a bit of insider flair (hi, that’s us), you’ll be thrilled to know our Portugal bike tour kicks off right here in Coimbra. From this historic university town, we pedal north through the timeless Douro Valley — where vineyards, river views, and ridiculously good food await — and finish in the lively city of Porto. Coimbra wasn’t made to be seen from the back of a tour bus. It’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down, breathe in the history and maybe stop for a pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tart) or two along the way.

How to Get to Coimbra

Getting to Coimbra is easy, whether you’re coming from Lisbon or Porto — and yes, we’re talking beginner-friendly, “I’ve-never-been-on-a-train-before” easy. 

Before you do anything, hop onto Rome2Rio — it’s a super handy website where you can plug in your starting city (Lisbon, Porto, or anywhere else), see all your travel options (train, bus, car), compare prices and travel times, and even book tickets online. Magic. 

How to get to Coimbra from Porto: 

  • Train: This is the most popular option and takes around 1.5 hours. Most trains leave from Porto Campanhã station. 
     
    A heads up: not all trains are direct — some have a quick stopover at Entroncamento or Aveiro, so double-check your route when booking. It’s not hard, just pay attention to the connection info. 

    What it’s like: Trains in Portugal are comfy and clean. You’ll find numbered seats, overhead racks for your bags, and sometimes even snack carts. There’s no need to print your ticket if you buy online — a QR code on your phone will do just fine. Just arrive 10–15 minutes early and follow the signs. Platforms are clearly marked and trains are usually on time (ish). 

Never been on a train before? No worries — it's easy-peasy. You’ll: 

  • Buy your ticket online (Rome2Rio or cp.pt) or at the station 
  • Look for the correct platform on the departure board 
  • Find your seat (assigned on most long-distance trains) 
  • Sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride (literally).  

It’s like flying, but without the turbulence and security checks. 

  • Bus: A good backup option if train schedules don’t match your plans. A bit longer (around 2 hours), but budget friendly.
  • Car: If you’re driving, Coimbra is just under 1.5 hours via the A1 highway — easy roads, beautiful views, and lots of service stops for a coffee fix. 

How to get to Coimbra from Lisbon: 

  • Train: Trains leave from Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia or Oriente stations and take about 2 hours to reach Coimbra-B (yep, that’s the main station — Coimbra has two, but Coimbra-B is the one you want for long-distance routes). 
     
    What to expect: Find your carriage number on your ticket, look for it on the platform signs, hop on, store your luggage, and settle in. There are often power sockets, free-ish Wi-Fi, and a chill atmosphere. Bring snacks, water, and maybe a playlist or book to keep you company. 
     
  • Bus: Cheaper than the train, slightly longer, and a bit more cramped — but still a solid option if you’re flexible. 
     
  • Car: The drive takes around 2 hours via the A1 highway. Easy if you’re renting a car, and you’ll see some lovely countryside along the way. Just keep in mind, in Portugal they drive on the right-hand side of the road. 

First Things First: The History of Coimbra 

Before Lisbon was the star of the show, Coimbra was Portugal’s capital — a title it held from 1139 to 1255, back when Portugal was still finding its feet as a nation. But Coimbra’s story starts way earlier than that. 

Originally a Roman settlement called Aeminium, the area was strategically important — perched on a hill above the Mondego River, it had a natural defensive position and a view worth fighting for. You can still spot Roman ruins today, including a well-preserved aqueduct and cryptoporticus (basically an ancient underground hallway — cooler than it sounds). 

Royal roots run deep 

When Portugal’s first king, Dom Afonso Henriques, declared independence from the Kingdom of León in 1139, he chose Coimbra as his seat of power. Why? Because it was already a bustling, fortified city with cultural clout and a central location. His son, Sancho I, and granddaughter Saint Isabel of Aragon (who is buried in Coimbra’s Santa Clara-a-Nova Monastery) also ruled from here. 

The Old Cathedral (Sé Velha) was built during this time — a Romanesque masterpiece that still stands like it owns the place. And it kind of does. 

The academic heart of Portugal 

Coimbra is best known today for being home to the University of Coimbra, founded in 1290 by King Dinis I. Originally established in Lisbon, it moved permanently to Coimbra in 1537 — and with it came centuries of tradition, intellectual life, and some seriously dramatic academic robes. 

Yes, the students here wear black capes and suits, just like in Harry Potter — but these weren’t borrowed from fiction. They’re called traje académico, and they’re worn with pride during exams, ceremonies, and student festivals like Queima das Fitas, a week-long celebration at the end of the academic year involving parades, serenades, and a whole lot of late nights. 

Not-so-fun but important: Resistance and resilience 

During the Estado Novo dictatorship (1933–1974), Coimbra's university became a hotbed for political resistance. Students and professors actively protested against censorship and authoritarian rule — often facing arrest or worse. The city’s legacy as a place of ideas, debate, and social change runs just as deep as its architecture. 
 
With every stone, cloister, and courtyard, you’ll find echoes of a city that helped shape Portugal’s identity, from empire to revolution. And the best part? You don’t need a history degree to appreciate it — just a curious mind (and maybe a guide who knows where to stop for the best views). 

The Main Attraction: Coimbra University Library 

Coimbra may be full of history, but this is the crown jewel. 

Perched on a hilltop and dominating the skyline, the University of Coimbra isn’t just any old school — it’s one of the oldest universities in the world still in operation. And in 2013, the university (and its historical buildings) was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Why? Because it represents over seven centuries of continuous academic life, architectural splendor, and cultural impact — not just in Portugal, but across former Portuguese colonies, especially Brazil and Africa. 

A university with royal blood 

What sets it apart? For starters, the Paço das Escolas (Palace of Schools) — once a royal palace — is now the heart of the university. It’s here that kings once ruled and where students now pull all-nighters (we assume). The transition from palace to university gives it a unique vibe: think formal courtyards, grand staircases, and the kind of atmosphere that whispers, "people have been thinking deep thoughts here for a very very very long time." 

The Joanina Library: A Baroque Masterpiece 

Now, let’s talk about the real showstopper: the Biblioteca Joanina, or Joanina Library. Commissioned by King João V in the early 1700s (hence the name), this baroque beauty looks like it stepped straight out of a fairy tale — or Belle’s wildest dreams. 

Gold leaf. Rich, lacquered wood. Fresco-painted ceilings. Over 60,000 rare books, many dating back to the 16th century. And it’s all wrapped in silence and grandeur, like time itself took a breath and froze. 

Fun fact? The library was built with walls over 2 meters thick to regulate humidity naturally — no air con needed. That’s 18th-century engineering for you. 

Yes, there are bats. Real ones. 

And here’s the most unexpected twist: a colony of tiny bats lives inside the Joanina Library. No, this isn’t a tourist gimmick. These bats have been living there for centuries and they’re part of the conservation team. 
Their job? Eating insects that would otherwise munch on the priceless manuscripts. Every evening, the bats come out, do their pest-control rounds, and fly back to their hiding spots behind the bookshelves. To protect the furniture from their droppings, the librarians cover everything with leather cloths at night and clean up every morning — true story. You can read about it here via Smithsonian Magazine

How to visit Coimbra University & Library? 

The Joanina Library isn’t open for random wandering. Access is limited and time-slotted, and trust us — booking a guided tour is worth it. Not only will you get priority access to the library, but you'll also understand what you’re seeing. There’s so much symbolism and detail, it’s easy to miss it all without a guide who knows their Latin inscriptions from their secret passageways (yes, those exist too). 

Coimbra Attractions (a.k.a. Must-See Sights + Local Favorites) 

Yes, Coimbra is famous for its university and scholarly charm — but don’t be fooled. This city’s got layers, and whether you're a history buff, plant nerd, river-stroller, or just here for the cafe vibes, there’s something worth putting your walking shoes (or bike helmet) on for. Here are 10 things you can add to your Coimbra bucket list: 

Explore the Old Town + Sé Velha (Old Cathedral) 

Start in Coimbra’s Old Town, where steep, winding streets spill down from the university like ribbons. It’s cobbled, compact, and full of character — and at the heart of it all is the Sé Velha, or Old Cathedral. Built in the 12th century, it’s a classic example of Romanesque architecture: fortress-like on the outside, stunningly simple on the inside.  

Pro tip: Get there early to enjoy the calm before the student rush. 

Walk along the Mondego River 

Every good city needs a river, and Coimbra’s got the Mondego, Portugal’s longest river. There’s a riverside promenade perfect for a slow stroll, a jog, or — for the romantics — a sunset hand-holding session. Cross over the Pedro e Inês footbridge for beautiful views of the city from across the water. 

Visit the Santa Clara-a-Velha Monastery (Ruins Done Right) 

Just across the river, you’ll find the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha — hauntingly beautiful ruins. Built in the 1300s for Queen Isabel (who later became a saint), the monastery was abandoned after centuries of being repeatedly flooded by the Mondego. It was only in the early 2000s that it was excavated and opened to the public, and now? It’s one of the coolest historical sites in town, complete with a visitor center that does a great job of piecing the past together. 

Chill in the Botanical Garden 

Need a break from all the stone and history? Head to the Botanical Garden, one of the oldest in Europe — founded in 1772. It’s lush, peaceful, and filled with more than 1,200 plant species, shady walking paths, and even the occasional peacock sighting if you’re lucky. Locals come here to think, nap, sketch, and escape the heat — so join them. No entry fee, no agenda, just green goodness.

Get Lost in the Cobbled Streets (On Purpose) 

Some of the best Coimbra attractions aren’t marked on maps. They’re tucked into alleyways, hidden behind tiny cafés, or painted on walls as vibrant street art. Wander the lower town (Baixa), poke your head into old bookstores and antique shops, and don’t be afraid to follow your nose — especially if it leads you to fresh bread or roasted chestnuts. 

Catch a Live Fado Show (Coimbra-Style!) 

Fado is to Portugal what jazz is to New Orleans — it’s in the blood, and it’s all about the feels. Coimbra-style Fado is different from Lisbon’s more famous version; it’s softer, more intimate, and deeply tied to the university’s traditions. Performed mainly by male students (often in capes, of course), Coimbra Fado has a quieter, more soulful edge. It’s a bit melancholic, a bit nostalgic, and will likely make you fall in love with the city all over again. 
Tip: Head to Casa de Fado in the historic center for an authentic experience, where you’ll hear the music live, up close, and in the right atmosphere. 

Shop at Mercado D. Pedro V 

Looking for a more local experience? Skip the touristy trinkets and head to Mercado D. Pedro V. This is the beating heart of Coimbra’s food scene — a lively market where locals grab their fresh produce, cheeses, meats, and fish. It's a sensory overload in the best possible way: bustling stalls, colorful fruits and veggies, and the constant hum of bargaining in Portuguese. Don’t forget to grab some local Queijo da Serra cheese (trust us, it's divine). 

Tip: If you’re looking to impress at your next dinner party, pick up a few chorizo sausages or some traditional Portuguese jams to take home. 

Paddle or Kayak on the Mondego River 

Want to see Coimbra from a different perspective? Hop on the Mondego River for a peaceful paddle or kayak. The river meanders through the city, and there's no better way to enjoy Coimbra’s natural beauty than by gliding past its historical sites, with the university looming overhead. It’s a perfect way to clear your head after a morning of sightseeing. And if you don’t want to paddle sitting down, you can paddle standing up! 

Visit the Quinta das Lágrimas (The Garden of Tears) 

Tucked away in a serene corner of the city, Quinta das Lágrimas is a historic estate known for its beautiful garden and tragic love story. The tale of Pedro and Inês (the Portuguese equivalent of Romeo and Juliet) is a heartbreaking one — and this garden is where their forbidden love came to an untimely end. 

Eat at a “Tasca” (Traditional Portuguese Tavern) 

For the ultimate local experience, skip the fancy restaurants and seek out a tasca — a small, family-run tavern that serves authentic Portuguese dishes in a cozy, no-frills setting. These places often have daily specials like bacalhau (salted cod), carne de porco à alentejana (pork and clams), or feijão verde (green beans). Ask the locals where their favorite tasca is, and you'll be in for a treat!

What to Eat in Coimbra 

Coimbra has no shortage of iconic dishes to sample! 

Main Dishes

  • Leitão à Bairrada (Suckling Pig) – Crispy, juicy, and iconic. 
  • Chanfana (Goat Stew) – A rich, flavorful stew made with goat meat and red wine. 
  • Bacalhau à Bairrada (Salted Cod) – Cod prepared with garlic, olive oil, and herbs. 
  • Feijoada (Bean Stew) – Hearty bean stew with pork and sausages. 
  • Açorda (Bread Soup) – Rustic bread soup made with garlic, olive oil, and eggs. 

Desserts: 

  • Pastéis de Tentúgal – Flaky, custard-filled pastries. 
  • Torta de Azeitão – A rich roll cake filled with creamy egg-based filling. 
  • Bolo de Arroz (Rice Cake) – Fluffy, slightly sweet rice cake, perfect with coffee. 
  • Pudim Abade de Priscos (Flan) – Eggy, caramel-flavored flan with a rich taste. 
  • Queijadas de Coimbra – Soft, cheesy custard pastries with a hint of cinnamon. 

Drinks: 

  • Bairrada Wine – Bold reds and sparkling espumante from the Bairrada region. 
  • Ginja (Cherry Liqueur) – Sweet and tangy cherry liqueur. 
  • Bica (Espresso) – Strong Portuguese coffee. 
  • Limonada (Lemonade) – Refreshing, sweet-sour lemon drink. 
  • Port Wine – Sweet, fortified wine from the north. 

Weather in Coimbra: When to Visit 

Coimbra’s Mediterranean vibes mean you’re in for mild winters and warm summers, making it a great year-round destination. But if you’re looking for the sweet spot, spring and early autumn are your best bets. These seasons offer ideal biking weather — cool enough to explore without sweating buckets, but warm enough to enjoy those outdoor views. Plus, you’ll dodge the summer crowds, which is always a win. 

Tip: If you’re not a fan of melting in the summer heat, it’s best to steer clear of late July and August when the temperatures can skyrocket. Otherwise, get ready to enjoy Coimbra at its best with the perfect balance of sunshine and mild breezes.  

Portugal from Handlebar height 

Coimbra is the Goldilocks of Portuguese cities — not too big, not too small, but just right. It’s packed with history, charm, and energy, yet without the overwhelming crowds of Lisbon or Porto.  

And here’s the best part: Coimbra is the starting point of our 6-day Portugal bike tour!‍‍ Starting in Coimbra, you’ll pedal and sip your way through the STUNNING Douro Valley, finishing up in Porto with memories and views you’ll never forget. From biking along railway paths to hiking Portugal’s legendary Camino trails — this tour’s got it all. And with plenty of downtime to enjoy the views! 

Want in on the action? Check out our Portugal bike tour — we’ll bring the bikes, you bring the curiosity (and your appetite... and maybe some sunscreen!) 

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